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Cruising the Galapagos with Hurtigruten Expeditions means days filled with seeing wildlife and learning the natural history of these islands.
I kept thinking about using the ship’s small gym. But instead, I spent every evening outside on the deck, drinking peach nectar mixed with sparkling water and contemplating the sunset. The Santa Cruz II’s outdoor furniture was so comfortable, and the days of looking at fabulous Galapagos animals were long. Activities never stop on a Hurtigruten Expeditions cruise. I didn’t want to miss a single marine iguana swimming by, a frigate bird flying over, or an onboard natural history talk. Especially since I was on the new western Galapagos itinerary , a short cruise of only four nights.
Arrival in Quito
The itinerary actually starts in Quito. Guests arrive two nights before the ship departs. On their first full day in Quito, they take a bus trip to nearby Cotopaxi National Park to see one of the world’s tallest volcanos. However, some of us got in very late, so Hurtigruten arranged a tour of Quito instead so we could sleep in a bit. We toured the old part of the city and met market vendors, a hat maker, a man who repairs statues, and other Quito personalities.
Visiting the Sombrereria Benalcazar. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Exploring the Ship
On our second morning in Ecuador , we had to get up early to make a 5:45 flight to Baltra, the Galapagos’ biggest airport. The islands are 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, so it wasn’t a long flight, but a stop in Guayaquil made it a little longer.
A bus met us at the Galapagos airport and took us to a dock where we boarded pangas, also known as Zodiac boats. This would be the first of many panga rides as we traveled between islands.
The Santa Cruz II carries up to 90 passengers, making it tiny by cruise ship standards but sizable for the Galapagos, where ships are limited to 100 guests. I immediately went to check out my cabin and was thrilled by what I saw. After the early morning and two flights, a comfortable king-sized bed was an exciting sight. I hadn’t expected such a large and luxurious bed on this expedition ship. I had plenty of storage space between the desk, drawers, and closet. My window came with a remote control to open and close the shade.
My giant bed on the Santa Cruz II. Photo by Teresa Bergen
The Outside of the Ship
My favorite parts of the ship were the outside areas—the aforementioned deck where I watched the sunset, the two jacuzzis, and a smaller uncovered deck at the top of the ship. I started every morning up there doing yoga, along with a German couple who came to smoke, as that was the only place on the ship where smoking was allowed.
My giant bed on the Santa Cruz II. Photo by Teresa Bergen.
Some excellent indoor areas also included a huge library with many comfy chairs, snacks, and a self-serve espresso machine. Also, a smaller reading room was available and usually empty. The washer and dryer that guests could use for free came in handy for many of us.
A jacuzzi with a view. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Wildlife Activities on the Galapagos Islands
Visiting the Galapagos is mostly about wildlife. 97% of the islands are part of a national park. So most of our activities focused on wildlife. Since the itinerary was so short, there was no time to waste. We visited Cerro Dragon, or Dragon Hill, on Santa Cruz Island that first afternoon. It’s named for the big golden land iguanas that nest there. Passengers were divided into small groups of about ten so we could hear our guides and not feel like we were in a giant mob. In addition to spotting some land iguanas, we took about a gazillion photos of bright pink flamingos hunting in brackish water.
Flamingo hunting on Santa Cruz Island. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Our guide, Daniel Moreano, was never short on wildlife facts. As we stood on Dragon Hill, he described lizard love. Or lust. He detailed how the male approaches the female, bobbing his head and moving in ever-tightening circles around her until they finally mate.
The guides have a stupendous amount of info, and the cruise was jam-packed with natural history. Love wildlife? You’ll be in heaven. If you’re not that into nature, beware.
My favorite Galapagos animal is the adorable marine iguana. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Wildlife in the Galapagos Waters
Besides walking, other ways to watch wildlife with Hurtigruten are snorkeling, kayaking, paddle boarding, glass-bottom boat rides, zooming around in pangas, or just watching from the deck. We had several birders aboard; they could always be found early in the morning, binoculars in hand and coffee nearby.
The pangas were great for spotting iconic Galapagos animals. On a single ride near Punta Vicente Roca on Isabela Island, we saw penguins sunning on a rock, flightless cormorants fanning their funny little wings, and blue-footed boobies hanging out in cliff nooks. Sea turtles, sea lions, and marine iguanas swam right by us. We even saw the fins tips of a passing manta ray.
Looking for wildlife on a panga ride. Photo by Teresa Bergen
But my favorite was snorkeling. The water was unseasonably warm at 78 degrees, so wetsuits were optional. At one point, I swam with tens of thousands of black-striped Salema, a little five-inch fish, as though I was part of the school.
A curious sea lion. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Other Activities
Even when we visited the big city of Puerto Ayora (population 12,000) on Santa Cruz Island, most of the focus was still on wildlife. We spent our morning at the Charles Darwin Research Station learning about giant tortoises, then our afternoon was spent in the Santa Cruz Highlands, watching them in the wild. There was a little time before and after to shop in the touristy town. Things are costly here, for a good reason—everything has to be brought way the heck out here to these remote islands.
A giant tortoise in the Santa Cruz Highlands. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Between tortoise stops, we had a chance to ride bikes in the Galapagos. Our bus took us to a small town where bikes awaited us. Those of us who chose to bike picked our steed. The route was beautiful, green, slightly hilly, and very sweaty, as we were near the equator, and it was the middle of the day. Our destination: a moonshine operation at a farm. Not being a drinker, I skipped the moonshine but tried sugar cane juice instead. We got to see the moonshine still and watch farmer/owner Adriano Cabrera throw a shot into a fire that bursts like a fireball to demonstrate the high proof.
Farmer and moonshine maker Adriano Cabrera shows off his still. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Dining on the Santa Cruz II
Dining on the Santa Cruz required casual dress, and you sat wherever you wanted. But the food itself was fancier than people’s clothes. Everything was carefully made and plated. In keeping with Hurtigruten’s aim to be the greenest of cruises, they don’t have paper menus. You use a QR code to open the menu on your phone. If you don’t have your phone, the servers have iPads guests can use. I liked their system of having everybody order their next meal ahead. That is, at breakfast, you ordered lunch. And at lunch, you ordered dinner.
The kitchen timed it so that your first course was ready when you sat down for these meals. After long, action-packed days, I was glad not to sit around forever at dinner waiting for food.
Dinner at sea. Photo by Teresa Bergen
The staff was fast to identify and remember who had which dietary quirk. As a vegan, I was thrilled that there was always at least one vegan dish to choose from. It might be risotto with asparagus, vegan cheese, or a veg-heavy farmer’s stew. Sometimes the chef made a special quinoa waffle at breakfast just for me. As a non-drinker, I appreciated that the staff remembered this from day one. The server brought me a non-alcoholic mojito for the initial captain’s toast without me even asking. And he discreetly removed my wine glass at every meal.
Mashpi Lodge
For most Hurtigruten guests, traveling to the Galapagos is a long way, especially for a four-night cruise. Passengers on my cruise came from the US, England, Germany, and Australia. Many were combining two itineraries and staying aboard for about ten days. We also had the choice of adding on a stay in Mashpi Lodge, three hours northwest of the capital.
The architecture is all about windows at Mashpi. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Mashpi Lodge is a modern-looking ecolodge mostly made of windows, surrounded by almost 7,000 acres of protected forest. Inside, it’s cozy and dry, thanks to dehumidifiers. Outside, it rains. And rains. Fortunately, the lodge issues guests rubber boots, a necessity for any Mashpi Lodge activity. Whether you’re visiting the biologist’s lab to learn about new species discovered here, hiking down muddy hills to jump in waterfalls, or tromping through the dark forest at night with headlamps while your guide flips over giant leaves to reveal creepy crawlies, you’ll need those boots.
The elegant snail eater. Photo by Estuardo Lima
Two aerial activities give Mashpi guests a close-up look at the tree canopy. The two-person sky bikes let you pedal across an expanse of cloud forest, looking down at solid green and endless epiphytes clinging to trees. The Dragonfly carries four guests and a guide. This slow-moving gondola takes about 45 minutes in each direction and is a relaxing way to check out the treetop views. Both are amazing engineering feats.
The sky bike. Photo by Teresa Bergen
Rooms at the Lodge
The rooms are comfortable and simply furnished. The focal point is a floor-to-ceiling window that looks out into the forest. The food skews toward fine dining. I appreciated the vegan menu, which featured dishes like an upscale take on spaghetti using some local Andean ingredients. The salad bar had vinaigrettes made with jungle fruits, and local women made the granola served at breakfast.
Room with a jungle view. Photo by Teresa Bergen
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If You Go Cruising the Galapagos with Hurtigruten Expeditions
Make the most of your trip by giving yourself a few extra days, whether spending time on your own or adding one of Hurtigruten’s extensions. The combination of stark volcanic islands in the Galapagos, the lush forest at Mashpi, and the corresponding critters were memorable. Ecuador makes wildlife lovers’ flora and fauna dreams come true, from iguanas to toucans. Let Wander With Wonder be your guide when planning your next cruise or trip to South America .
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Cruising the Galapagos with Hurtigruten Expeditions
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