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More and more, I find myself craving time immersed in nature. There really is nothing like it for lifting my mood, calming my mind and chasing away stress. So, when Chris and I were invited to try out Blackbird, a houseboat rental on a peaceful North Devon lake, we jumped at the chance to break our journey back from Cornwall and put off our return to city life for another couple of days.
Once a working canal boat, Blackbird has been transformed into a floating suite for two by Tregulland & Co , who own several other holiday homes in the South West. It’s now moored on the private Blagdon Water, at the end of a winding track, and feels wonderfully secluded, although the market town of Holsworthy is only a 10-minute drive away for stocking up on provisions.
The wild location certainly doesn’t mean roughing it, and this is one luxurious boat. Behind the sleek matt black exterior is a light and airy open-plan space with wood-panelled walls, soothing grey-blue accents and everything you could possibly need for a comfortable stay afloat. At one end is a small but smart kitchen with an electric oven, an induction hob and a fridge-freezer, plus a dining table flanked by two leather tub chairs. In the middle is an L-shaped sofa strewn with cushions, and beyond that a kingsize bed and a door through to a moody grey ensuite with a glass-walled shower and a salvaged industrial sink. And just a few metres away on the shore sits a separate wooden ‘bathhouse’, where you’ll find a dressing table, another loo, and a huge duck-egg blue slipper tub set against a quirky wall of mirrors.
Everything is very cleverly designed, with hidden drawers and cupboards for storing your luggage, a cute little coffee table on wheels that pulls out from underneath the sofa, and a wood-burner to keep you warm when it’s chilly. There are also lots of little extras, including REN toiletries, waffle robes, a Ruark Bluetooth speaker / radio, and beach towels for the nearby coast.
But the biggest treat is the enchanting setting. Mirror-still and studded with lily pads, Blagdon Water resembles something from a fairytale. There’s no traffic noise, no fumes, no crowds. And, as the two other boats moored on the lake are tucked well out of sight, the only neighbours are the birds and dragonflies that flit in and out of the reeds. The North Devon and North Cornish coasts are both within easy day-tripping distance, as are the wilds of Exmoor and Dartmoor, but we decided not to venture anywhere and instead spent our time soaking up the serenity and solitude.
After a deep night’s slumber (the bed truly is one of the most comfortable I’ve ever slept on), we awoke to birdsong and headed out to the boat’s aft seating area with coffee, where we were entertained by a hilarious display of squawking and flapping from the resident flock of geese. Then it was time for a long soak in the tub, with the bathhouse doors flung open (there’s no chance of anyone seeing in) so I could enjoy the breeze. For the rest of the day we alternated between board games, reading and just sitting back with the binoculars provided, watching daily life on the water. And come evening, we lounged on deck with a drink as the setting sun turned the lake into molten gold, then huddled around the firepit to gaze at the stars emerging overhead.
This being a boat, there are a few things to get used to, including the gentle rocking if anyone moves around too heavily and the noise of the waste-waster pumps when you run taps or flush the loo. There’s also no WiFi, and the 4G signal is fairly patchy. But it’s all part of the fun and to be honest we both relished the break from email and social media.
We may have only had 48 hours at Blackbird, but we left feeling more relaxed and rested than we have in a long while. Our stay coincided with glorious May sunshine, but I’d love to go back in winter to watch mist rising from the lake and snuggle up in front the wood-burner. For the perfect balance of luxury and nature, it really is hard to beat.
Check availability for Blackbird and make a booking here . A three-night weekend stay starts at £400 (adults only; no dogs allowed).
All photography by Abi Dare
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