One the one hand, the musical haven of Salzburg, Austria is where you can walk the same streets as Mozart and absorb the city’s classical influence, on the other, the charming medieval town of Český Krumlov in the Czech Republic is a pretty, UNESCO-listed town with incredible views and hidden corners to discover.
Cruising the Danube River
Choosing between the two is no easy task.
Especially as for some Danube River cruises, you may have the third choice of remaining with the ship to explore the port town.
Having visited both, we’ve decided to put together this guide that will explore both Salzburg and Ceský Krumlov in detail, highlighting their unique features, attractions, and cultural offerings to help you figure out which city is the best fit for you.
We’ll also share our experiences with the third choice: Passau.
Whether you are drawn to the musical allure of Salzburg or the medieval enchantment of Ceský Krumlov, both destinations promise an immersive journey through history, art, and culture.
Table Of Contents
Salzburg vs. Český Krumlov: Our Choice Option 1: Salzburg, Austria Why Choose Salzburg on your Danube River Trip? About Our Salzburg Day Trip Experience Mirabell Palace and Gardens Bridge Crossing into Salzburg Old Town – Altstadt Stroll Getreidgasse Mozart's House St Peter's Abbey & Salzburg Cathedral ResidenzPlatz (Residence Square) Free Time in Salzburg Mondsee (Mond Lake) Option 2: Ceský Krumlov, Czech Republic Why choose Ceský Krumlov on your Danube River Trip? Our Day Trip to Ceský Krumlov Experience Cesky Krumlov Castle The Vltava River Wander the Old Medieval Town Option 3: Explore Passau Germany + A Scenic Sail Why choose Passau on your Danube River Trip Guided City Walk Passau Hike Scenic Sail from Passau to Linz Which is Better: Salzburg or Cesky Krumlov? Final Thoughts
Salzburg vs. Český Krumlov: Our Choice
Do Re Mi tunnel, Salzburg
On our 8-day Danube River cruise with Avalon Waterways , I too embarked on a Google search to help me figure out whether Salzburg or Cesky Krumlov was the best choice for our optional excursion.
I didn’t find much helpful information, with no one giving a definitive reason for their answer – this is one reason I have written this post so you don’t come up empty handed.
As we were traveling as a family of four, we split up to experience both destinations . We’re hoping our combined experiences – and many photos – may help you make the best choice for you.
We were also in an unusual position that we experienced the “normal” third option to stay at port.
Cesky Krumlov
Unfortunately, our river cruise could not depart from Nuremburg due to unusually low water in the Danube (we left from Vilshofen in Germany instead which changed our itinerary slightly).
As compensation, Avalon generously offered the optional excursion to Český Krumlov in the Czech Republic or Salzburg in Austria as complimentary.
It also meant the normal third choice “staying in Passau” was something the entire ship experienced due to the itinerary change.
Normally, those who don’t visit either Salzburg or Český Krumlov would have an included city walking tour of Passau followed by a scenic sail to Linz where you’ll meet those returning form the day trip.
BBQ lunch in Passau
Originally Craig was going to Český Krumlov and I was going to stay with the boat in Passau to do the included excursions and scenic river sail, as I did not want to miss that.
Because our itinerary changed, the optional day trips to Salzburg and Český Krumlov were moved to depart from, and return to, the Austrian town of Linz, though most will depart from Passau if water levels are optimal.
So in this guide, we’ll also share the usual third option as a choice to choose from: Passau and the scenic sail.
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Option 1: Salzburg, Austria
Nestled in the heart of Austria, Salzburg offers a rich tapestry of history, culture, and breathtaking attractions.
Known as the birthplace of the musical genius Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Salzburg exudes a distinct air of musical heritage that permeates its streets and landmarks.
It’s also home to the Sound of Music, which was the main drawcard for me choosing this optional excursion on our Avalon Waterways river cruise.
I have many beautiful memories connected to watching this movie with my family and good friends to serving Friedrich von Trapp (Nicholas Hammond) several times at my hometown seafood restaurant I worked at. He was friends with the owner and dined frequently. He was a lovely man and there was no mistaking those baby blue eyes!
When choosing between Salzburg and Ceský Krumlov, I felt that Cesky Krumlov is a place I’ve (Caroline) always wanted to visit, and I feel, I will get there one day. For that reason, I choose to go to Salzburg, as I probably wouldn’t make the effort to travel there in the future. I’ll save Ceský Krumlov for another time so I can spend longer there.
We also visited many medieval cities on our 2 week Italy trip so I wanted to try something different.
Why Choose Salzburg on your Danube River Trip?
Here are some reasons you may want to visit Salzburg:
Salzburg showcases a harmonious blend of Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance architectural styles.
The city’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is adorned with elegant palaces, grand churches, and charming narrow streets.
The iconic Hohensalzburg Fortress looms high above the city, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes.
Salzburg has an interesting history; it did not belong to Austria until the 19 th Century , so they have a very different background and personality and are proud of it.
Salzburg exudes a refined and sophisticated vibe within a rich cultural heritage. If you have a passion for music, history, and classical architecture, Salzburg might be the ideal choice.
You can immerse yourself in the musical legacy of Mozart by visiting his birthplace or attending a classical concert. The city resonates with the sounds of classical music, creating an atmosphere that is truly magical.
The city is home to world-renowned music festivals such as the Salzburg Festival, where opera, classical music, and theater performances captivate audiences from around the globe.
You can relive the iconic moments from the beloved film “The Sound of Music” exploring filming locations and the picturesque landscapes surrounding the city. ( See this Sound of Music tour here if not traveling to Salzburg on a cruise.)
About Our Salzburg Day Trip Experience
The Do Rei Me Steps
Kalyra joined me for this all day excursion to Salzburg, Austria. Our local tour guide Maria from Salzburg joined us in Linz for the 75-minute bus ride to Salzburg. On the drive, she shared a lot about the history and culture of this town in the Austrian alps.
Of course, she spoke a lot about the Sound of Music and the true story of the Von Trapp Family .
Surprisingly, not many Austrians, especially those from Salzburg have seen the Sound of Music.
After the war, Austrians wanted to move on and forget about what happened. They did not want to be reminded and see Nazis once again marching across their Residenzplatz Square.
Once we arrived in Salzburg, Maria took us on a walking tour through the city pausing to visit a few historical locations:
Mirabell Palace and Gardens
A must-see attraction in Salzburg is the Mirabell Palace and Gardens, where you can follow in the footsteps of Maria and the Von Trapp family.
The palace was originally built by the bishop Wolf Dietrich for his beloved mistress (and he also had 16 children!). We did not visit the palace on our tour, but wandered through the meticulously manicured Baroque gardens adorned with vibrant flowers, fountains, and statues.
Pegasus Fountain
Maria pointed out several areas used in the filming of the Sound Of Music including Pegasus Fountain in front of the palace Maria and the children danced around, and the steps in front of the Rose Hill where they sang Do-Rei-Me. I decided to embarrass my teen daughter, Kalyra, by doing the same thing!
Bridge Crossing into Salzburg Old Town – Altstadt
The rest of the tour is in beautifully persevered Altstadt, or Old Town of Salzburg, which was registered on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1997.
The Old Town is filled with narrow, cobblestone streets that merge into famous squares dotted with historic buildings from the Middle Ages, Romanesque, Baroque and Renaissance periods. Perched high above, overlooking the town and the meandering Salzach River is the Hohensalzburg Fortress.
Hohensalzburg Fortress
We paused on the pedestrian bridge crossing the Salzach River to admire the views, the cyclists on the river path, and to learn more abut the Altstadt.
The bridge is laden down with Lovers Locks, if that phenomenon interests you at all!
Stroll Getreidgasse
Getreidgasse
We had a short stroll down Getreidegasse, Salzburg’s most famous commercial avenue running through the Altstadt. This cobbled thoroughfare is lined with upscale emporiums, kitschy souvenir stands, and charming bistros housed in historical buildings adored with wrought-iron guild symbols. Hidden alleys beckon with peaceful courtyards, arched corridors, and eateries.
It’s a favored place for cruisers to explore more during their free time after the walking tour. Our guide told us the best strudel can be found at Restaurant Meissl & Schadn Salzburg.
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Note: We visited on a Sunday, and in Austria Sundays are QUIET days with most things closed. The street is usually much busier (good or bad, you decide) and filled with street musicians adding to the city’s enchanting ambiance.
Mozart’s House
Salzburg is renowned as the birthplace of the legendary composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. He spent the early years of his life in Salzburg before being kicked out for his unrefined behavior, when he then moved to Vienna.
We stopped outside his birthplace, a charming yellow building that now serves as a museum showcasing his life and musical genius. We just viewed from the outside and learned more about his geniuses and rebellious personality (which I loved) and his premature death (the bloodletting moves of his time!).
You may wish to visit the exhibits inside during your free time.
St Peter’s Abbey & Salzburg Cathedral
St Peter’s Abbey
Maria then guided us past the most beloved Festival Hall, where locals frequently visit for concerts, to St. Peter’s Abbey, which was founded in the 7th century and is considered the oldest monastery still in existence in the German-speaking world.
We then stopped in front of the Salzburg Cathedral which was mostly covered by a 300-seat platform in the Cathedral Square installed for the annual Salzburg Festival. The front facade of the cathedral with its elegant bulbous copper dome and imposing twin spires serves as a magnificent backdrop for the renowned Jedermann theater.
St PEter’s Catherdral
The Christmas Markets held here are a major attraction, drawing crowds of visitors each year.
Mozart was baptized here and later performed some of his most iconic pieces for the congregation.
ResidenzPlatz (Residence Square)
Salzburg Cathedral on Residence Square
Next to the Cathedral is Residenzplatz, where we ended our walking tour with Maria.
It’s a famous Baroque style city square is in front of the residence of the Prince-Archbishops of Salzburg, and was designed in the late 16th century. It has been a central point for various events and festivities over the years.
The centerpiece of Residenzplatz is the Residenzbrunnen, a large baroque fountain built in 1661 by Tommaso di Garona. The fountain features a stunning horse-driven chariot with four horses, and statues representing various Greek mythological figures.
Residenzplatz offers excellent views of Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom), St. Peter’s Abbey, and the surrounding mountains. The square is often used for cultural events, markets, and concerts.
Near here is also a statue of Mozart.
You may recognize Residenzplats as the place where Maria sang “I have confidence.” in the Sound of Music.
Free Time in Salzburg
Residence square
After our walking tour, we had 90 minutes free time to explore what interested us in Salzburg.
Unfortunately, as soon as our city highlights tour had finished, the rain came pouring down and did not let up. It meant our plans to visit the fortress and wander around the town were squashed.
Kalyra and I hunkered down for a delicious sausage plate lunch in a small cafe and then ran to Cafe Tomaselli (frequently visited by Mozart) for strudel and coffee.
Cafe Tomaselli
It did dampen our experience in Salzburg, which is one reason I felt a little underwhelmed by it. I think I may have preferred Ceský Krumlov.
If the sky is clear, I recommend you visit the Hohensalzburg Fortress, an iconic symbol of Salzburg’s medieval past and an impressive sight to behold. Hike or hop on a funicular to reach its towering walls. Once inside, explore its ancient chambers, marvel at the panoramic views of the city below, and delve into the fascinating history that lies within its walls. ( Get admission ticket here )
Don’t miss trying the original Mozart Balls at Konditorei Fürst. They still hand make the round Mozartkugeln, which is made from marzipan, nougat, and pistachio, covered in chocolate. Fürst wraps the original Mozart chocolate in blue and silver tinfoil. (There are many fakes in the city!) Kalyra and I somehow missed this!
Mondsee (Mond Lake)
Mond LAke
The dampened mood picked up once the skies cleared and we headed to our next destination on our Salzburg day trip – Mondsee, which means Mond Lake. This stunning alpine lake popular for holiday makers is only 30-minutes outside of Salzburg.
The Mondsee region as a place where the mountains meet the water, and the town is a centre both for watersports and for walking trails. There is a flat but very scenic 25 kilometres bike trail around the lake shore (use an e-bike to make it even easier!).
Our short visit here was delightful, and I’d be happy to return to soak up its relaxed charm and natural beauty.
We walked through the town with its beautiful row of colorful buildings and restaurants to visit the Basilika St. Michael .
This is a Basilica Minor, a rare title given by a pope for its beauty – and it was! Basilika St. Michael is the church Maria got married in the Sound of Music.
Basilika St. Michael
Where Maria married
Ice cream time
We had a little free time to explore. Kalyra and I finished off a good day together with a bowl of Austrian ice cream – it was as good as the long lines indicated – and a walk down to the lake.
Option 2: Ceský Krumlov, Czech Republic
Ceský Krumlov is a small, picturesque town with well-preserved medieval architecture and an enchanting atmosphere.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site, is often overshadowed by the cultural prowess of Salzburg, however, it holds its own unique appeal that is worth exploring.
As you wander through its narrow cobblestone streets, you’ll be captivated by the colorful Renaissance and Baroque buildings that line the Vltava River, creating a postcard-perfect scenery at every turn.
What makes Cesky Krumlov unique is that it’s surrounded by the Vltava River, creating a barrier between the old town in the center and the suburban areas outside. It’s worth going to the top of the round belltower for views of this unique landscape.
Why choose Ceský Krumlov on your Danube River Trip?
Here are some reasons why you may choose Cesky Krumlov over Salzburg:
Cesky is a medieval town that boasts a well-preserved castle complex with a unique mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural elements. If you haven’t seen many medieval towns in Europe, this is certainly a good example of one.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is renowned for its well-preserved historical center with maze-like streets, colorful facades, stunning castle, and the meandering Vltava River that adds to its enchanting fairy-tale allure.
Ceský Krumlov offers a more intimate and bohemian atmosphere compared to Salzburg. Its smaller size and less crowded streets give it a sense of tranquility, allowing visitors to wander through its cobblestone alleys, discover hidden courtyards, and stumble upon charming artisan shops.
Although growing in popularity, Ceský Krumlov still maintains a more relaxed and laid-back ambiance. It offers a chance to escape the hustle and bustle of larger tourist destinations and immerse oneself in a more authentic and less crowded experience. Salzurg tends to attract larger crowds and higher prices.
It’s a chance to visit another country on your Danube River cruise. This was one reason, our youngest, Savannah chose to go here with Craig. (She loves country counting!)
Our Day Trip to Ceský Krumlov Experience
Craig is going to take over now to share his day trip to Ceský Krumlov with Savannah.
I first heard of Cesky Krumlov 25 years ago from a friend who said if you can’t get to Prague, a great alternative on a smaller scale is Cesky, so I was excited when I noticed Cesky Krumlov as an option on our cruise itinerary.
Savannah liked the sound of it, and wanted to add another country to her growing list (now at 19).
Our day started with a 90-minute bus ride while our guide shared fascinating commentary as we admired the scenery.
Upon arrival at Cesky, we enjoyed a 90-minute guided walking tour with a local expert who shared interesting historical facts and stories as we wandered the cobblestone streets and across bridges taking in the town’s architecture and top attractions.
Here are some of the top attractions we visited there:
Cesky Krumlov Castle
The magnificent Cesky Krumlov Castle dominates the town’s skyline and was once the home to the Rosenberg dynasty for 300 years beginning in the early 1300’s. It’s the second largest in the Czech Republic and is a true architectural masterpiece, featuring Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements.
Views from castle
You can take a guided tour to discover the fascinating history behind its walls, explore the vast courtyards, and enjoy panoramic views of the town from the castle tower. During our free time, Savannah and I climbed the steps to the top of the castle tower (small fee) for fantastic views out over the city.
The Vltava River
Vltava River
The Vltava River gracefully winds its way around Český Krumlov, providing a scenic backdrop The lush greenery and serene ambiance provide the perfect backdrop for relaxation and rejuvenation.
Consider a relaxing stroll along the riverbanks or even a gentle rafting experience. Savannah and I both agreed that would have been a fun adventure.
Wander the Old Medieval Town
old Town
We crossed the Lavka pod Zamkem, a picturesque wooden bridge connecting the castle grounds and the historic city square.
Wandering through the cobbled streets of the historical center is like stepping into a fairy tale. The narrow alleyways are lined with colorful Renaissance and Baroque buildings, housing charming shops, cafes, and art galleries. Every corner reveals a new architectural delight, making it a delight for history and architecture enthusiasts.
Our guide pointed out recommended foods to try and places to eat and drink, which Savannah and I followed with the two hours of free tome we had to explore on our own. What I love about Avalon Waterways is the ample free time we got to pursue our own interests.
We relaxed and recharged over a coffee and sweet treat at a local cafe, and for lunch we ate at Papa’s , which had a wonderful view of the river from the outdoor terrace. I went with the local suggestion of Confit duck leg , red cabbage, and dumplings and thoroughly enjoyed it, washed down with a local beer. While Savannah kept it safe and simple and ordered a pizza!
We then stretched our legs and took in some more stores and cobblestone streets, before finishing off with a local ice cream, Trdelnik, in a cinnamon coated cone that Savannah devoured.
Option 3: Explore Passau Germany + A Scenic Sail
