I hiked the W circuit over a decade ago , and even then, it was so popular that all the lodging and camping spots were reserved far in advance. Suppose you are looking for a way to escape the crowds and how people typically experience Torres Del Paine. In that case, I have a solution for you. Ebiking from estancia to estancia in Torres Del Paine.
When my friend and Chile Nativo owner Gonzalo approached me about his innovative e-bike tour around Torres Del Paine National Park, I was immediately intrigued. In all my years in the travel industry, I had never come across the idea of biking around the park—only hiking. This culturally immersive e-bike adventure tour offers a unique perspective on the park, and I was eager to delve deeper into this exciting new way to experience Patagonia.
Getting closer!
Get off the beaten track in Torres Del Paine Patagonia
I wouldn’t say Patagonia is overtouristed. However, it is a very popular travel destination, and for a good reason – it’s utterly jaw-droppingly stunning. However, when you start researching Torres Del Paine National Park, you’ll find that the main activity is hiking the famous W or O trek around the park. However, more and more, you hear of the crowded campgrounds and refugios, the over-hiked trails, and the number of people at viewpoints.
There is no permit system in place yet for these hikes, but according to locals in the tourism industry, it’s not far off. Currently, campsite/lodging availability regulates the numbers on these hikes, but they will need to do more than that in the future if they want to preserve the trails and the experience.
This is why I’ve been looking for alternatives to the W or O Trek to experience the park.
I know – it’s easy for me to say skip the crowds and do something else since I luckily already did the hike myself years ago. But my goal with this website has always been to get people off the beaten track and introduce them to new, lesser-known places where they can have an even better, more transformational experience than the typical bucket list destinations.
views from Estancia San Luis
The hikes are a great way to get close to the famous torres (towers) – the three granite peaks of the Paine mountain that reach 8200 ft. However, the torres are just as impressive from a distance (IMO they are MORE impressive from a distance). When you see them rise up like needles from the flat expanse of pampas (grasslands) that surround the park along with the entire Paine mountain range – it’s epic. The W trek doesn’t give you those views.
However, an ebiking tour would do just that!
A Different Way to Experience Torres Del Paine National Park
A small group of us set off on one of my favorite kinds of trips—a journey. I’ve always considered journeys to be a special kind of travel.
One in which you pass from place to place with an ultimate destination goal at the end. It’s more than a vacation – it’s a passage of grand proportions where each day gets you closer to your goal. You learn from the places you see and the people you meet. Sometimes, you don’t know if you’ll make it to the goal – which makes it even sweeter when you arrive at the end of the journey.
I love this type of travel – it’s why I did the Camino de Santiago , the Mongol Rally , and why I do my Capitol to Capitol bike rides – for the journey.
Gravel roads
Estancia San Luis
Bories Guesthouse
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On this trip, we embarked on a unique journey from Estancia to Estancia by e-bike, each day getting closer and closer to the park while immersing ourselves in the rich culture of gauchos and family businesses. Each day, we biked past herds of wild animals, and we’d be stopped by them crossing over our path as if it were the African migration! One of my favorite things about this journey is that we could always see our goal, the torres in the park. In the evenings, we enjoyed the unique estancias, met the owners, and savored the most beautiful and complex food cooked over an open flame.
Patagonia Estancia History and Culture
An estancia is a large ranch normally located in the pampas (grasslands) surrounding the park. One of the things that makes the park so awe-inspiring is the fact that the mountain range rises 8,000 feet out of the flat pampas, making it look even more majestic.
In the 1800s, immigrants from European countries moved to Patagonia to take advantage of the grassy pampas as fields to raise large herds of sheep and cattle and cash in on the global demand for wool – white gold. The rugged land was perfect for raising livestock – it was about the only thing the harsh landscape was suitable for.
Estancias are large operations run by families and supported by ranch-hands – also known as gauchos. The gauchos are the heart of the estancias and land. They foster a connection to and respect for the landscape, close friendships, and learn to appreciate a slower, more isolated life. Being a gaucho is a true calling.
These estancias are often located great distances from each other, so the bonds between those who live and work at each ranch are strong and lasting. From the dogs to the sheep to the horses to the cows, the animals on the estancias form a symbiotic relationship—all exist together peacefully, each in its own tribe.
As raising livestock has become less lucrative, these historic estancias have recently started to turn to tourism to help support their existence. New lodge facilities have been built to accommodate horse-riding tourists, or old employee lodging has been revamped into lodging for tourists. Most of the ranches are still run by the families that started them, making it even more fascinating for visitors like me to learn about the changes through history.
This was the one thing that I always thought was lacking when I previously hiked the W in Torres del Paine – the exposure to culture. By journeying from estancia to estancia by bike – I was able to really learn about the culture more comprehensively.
What to Expect biking around Torres Del Paine Patagonia
We biked nearly 130 miles from Puerto Natales through the pampas, into the Sierra Baguales mountain range, and then into Torres Del Paine National Park.
Typically known for its powerful winds, this part of Patagonia has been inaccessible to biking for most people. However, with the rise of e-bikes, you can have the power when you need it. Whether you use the power to cut through the wind effortlessly or up some of the larger hills, it takes away the ‘suffering’ and allows you to really enjoy exploring the region.
Biking through Sierra Baguales
E-bikes in Patagonia
We used new Giant Talon Ebikes. These full-suspension electric mountain bikes help boost your performance on challenging terrain. Plus, they had big, burly tires to handle the gravel roads and pampas.
I was thrilled with the quality of the bike and the battery life. Not once did I run out of battery or feel like I had to conserve it. Plus, the guides took care of all of the charging and maintenance, so you can just enjoy the trip.
If you are new to e-biking, the first thing to know is you still have to pedal! You pedal and shift gears like normal, and when the bike feels you struggling, it will assist you with additional power. The bike does this by detecting your pedaling cadence and force. The level of assist is determined by which support mode you put it in; Power, Sport, Active, Basic, Eco. This way, you can decide how much exercise you get with an E-bike.
One of the hardest things for beginners riding an e-bike is to be aware of how heavy an e-bike can be.
However, I found these bikes to be surprisingly light and maneuverable. The technology and design of e-bikes improve every year—and these were top-of-the-line!
Estancia Lodging
We stayed in some beautiful estancias along the route. They varied from small operations with just horses to larger ranches with sheep, horses, and cattle. Some of the larger ones had their own quinchos – a covered area with a built-in grill for cooking asado (BBQ) and a large table for serving your asado to your friends and family. For others, we had our private chef cook for us. Remember – these aren’t typical hotels – they are working farms – they didn’t have restaurants.
Because we were staying in authentic, working estancias, the lodging sometimes included bunk beds and shared bathrooms. This didn’t bother me since our group had such excellent comradery. It just made the whole experience better, in my opinion.
Estancia San Luis
The family, Cárdenas-Oyarzún, has been dedicated to livestock farming for more than 45 years. It was a treat to meet the father and his adult children, who are all involved in the business. The estancia’s fence line on the west indicates the border between Argentina and Chile!
Estancia San Luis
Biking on Estancia San Luis property
Riding across their property was one of my highlights. Herds of horses ran wild along with us, and big rhea birds ran across our path, bringing us to a halt as we watched in awe. The sun was setting as we road along the tire tracked paths through the pampas.
It was beautiful and wild and was one of the most memorable days I’ve ever traveled .
One of the most time-honored (and delicious) traditions on the estancia is that of the authentic Patagonian asado or barbecue. A lamb is butterflied over a low-burned fire for several hours, cooking the meat to tender, juicy perfection, before being chopped up and served with sides and plenty of Chilean wine. The family had a beautiful quincho where they had a special asado for us. We feasted on lamb while the sun went down behind the torres in the distance – a magical way to end the day.
Estancia 3R
Tucked away among the stunning Sierra Baguales mountains lies Estancia 3R. The route there was hilly – but wasn’t a problem with the ebikes.
The estancia was located literally at the end of the road, where the landscape became even more wild and untamed – just like the horses she kept on the property. The owner sat and ate dinner with us, and she told us about the family history of the ranch being handed down through generations. She had decided long ago that she wouldn’t sell out to big companies, she wanted to keep the land free and wild.
It was touching how much she loved and wanted to fiercely protect the region.
Estancia 3R
Estancia 3R
