Pezenas (Occitanie)
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Provence) with the Rhône River in the distance.
South of France road trip route
This route from Toulouse to Marseille covers parts of two regions, Occitanie and western Provence . I chose these two cities as start and end points as they both have international airports and excellent high-speed train connections to Paris and beyond. The route includes charming villages and castles in the French Pyrenees , the oldest towns in France, fascinating cities like Toulouse , Montpellier and Avignon , impressive walled towns such as Carcassonne and Aigues-Mortes , nature parks, wineries, historic attractions and beaches.
Carcassonne
This road trip crosses large parts of the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region, one of France’s largest wine-producing areas by vineyard surface area. Though not as famous as other wine regions in France , it’s one of my favourites as the wines are simply sublime yet (still) reasonably priced.
The vineyards of Languedoc
My South of France road trip guide is by no means comprehensive but rather all the places I visited and truly enjoyed.
How much time would I need for this South of France road trip?
I recommend at least ten days to give yourself time to enjoy these beautiful places in the south of France. Scroll down to the end of this guide to find my suggested 15-day self-drive itinerary.
When is the best time for a South of France road trip?
My favourite time of the year to visit the south of France is between May and early-July, when temperatures are more agreeable and there are fewer crowds. September and October are also good months for a road trip. July-August are the hottest yet busiest months of the year, and the priciest.
This South of France road trip guide contains links to three services I often use myself and can recommend: Skyscanner (for flights), Booking.com (for hotel bookings), Rentalcars.com (for car hire) and GetYourGuide (for easy-to-book tours). If you make a booking via one of these services, I will receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you). These commissions help me to maintain my blog, cover my travel expenses and share these experiences with you.
Occitanie
Toulouse
This road trip kicks off in Toulouse , the capital of the region of Occitanie and France’s fourth-largest city. Toulouse is often called the ‘pink city’ ( La Ville Rose ) due to the extensive use of pinkish bricks in the old town. Founded by the Romans on the banks of the Garonne River, Toulouse is these days a major centre for the European aerospace industry (Airbus has its HQ here) and boasts three UNESCO World Heritage sites: Canal du Midi (a 17th century canal that links Toulouse with Sète on the Mediterranean coast), Basilica of St. Sernin (the largest Romanesque building in Europe) and Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques (a 12th century hospital that’s an important site on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route). Toulouse is also famous for its cuisine, something you’ll soon discover at the city’s markets and restaurants.
Toulouse (image by FRDR/Wikimedia Commons)
There are many things to do in Toulouse, but if you only have 1-2 days to spare, here are the highlights which can be covered in a day:
Admire the stunning Romanesque architecture of Basilica of St. Sernin
Visit the Gothic-style Couvent des Jacobins
Wander around the vibrant Place du Capitole , the heart of the city with the City Hall and Opera
Browse around Marché Victor Hugo (Victor Hugo market)
Stroll along the Garonne River (Pont Neuf to Pont St.-Pierre)
Join a food tour
Indulge in a Toulouse-style cassoulet (bean stew casserole with pork)
I suggest spending 1-3 days in Toulouse before picking up a rental car (if needed) for this road trip. Search for accommodations in Toulouse .
A street in Toulouse (image by M.Catheline/Unsplash)
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Canal du Midi: from Toulouse to Étang de Thau
The Canal du Midi is an architectural marvel that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. It starts in Toulouse and ends in the massive Étang de Thau lagoon on the Mediterranean coast. Designed by Pierre-Paul Riquet, the canal was constructed between 1666 to 1681 by 12,000 men. Whilst it was an important trade route in the past, these days, it’s used mainly for leisure. Visitors can hire boats, hotel-barges, or rent bikes and make their way along the canal at their own pace.
Canal du Midi at Carcasonne (image by K.Golik/Wikimedia Commons)
French Pyrenees
From Toulouse, head south to Foix , a historic town at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains. The Pyrenees are a mountain range that form a natural divide between France and Spain, with numerous peaks surpassing 3,000m (11,000 ft). Large sections of the range are protected nature parks, perfect for hiking and mountain climbing, and there are also countless castles, historic sites and towns to explore.
Foothills of the Pyrenees
Foix
Foix is a small city in the foothills of the French Pyrenees. Its old town, dominated by a formidable 10th century castle, is a captivating maze of cobblestone streets and 17th century half-timbered houses.
Foix (image by M.Gargre/Unsplash)
Foix is an excellent base from which to explore the Val d’Ariège (Ariège Valley) and numerous places of interest such as Château de Montségur (the Cathar Montségur Castle), the historic village of Vals (with its 10th century church carved out of the rock), the picturesque town of Tarascon-sur-Ariège , and the expansive Parc Naturel Régional des Pyrénées Ariégeoises (a popular hiking area). You can easily spend a few days exploring Foix and its surroundings. Search for accommodations in Foix .
Limoux
From Foix, continue to Limoux , a small town on the banks of the Aude River. Wine historians believe that the world’s first sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux , was produced in this region in 1531 by the monks at the abbey in Saint-Hilaire , near Limoux. Limoux itself is a lovely place for a stroll and a meal. The heart of town is Place de la République , with its stone arcades and half-timbered houses. The beautiful houses that line the Aude River are also an attraction. At the edge of town, you’ll find Maison Guinot , a small winery that offers tastings of its Blanquette de Limoux sparkling wines.
Limoux (image by Chris06/Wikimedia Commons)
The town is surrounded by vineyards for as far as the eye can see. Another winery I can recommend for a visit is Domaine de Baronarques , where you can tour the estate, learn about its history and end the tour with a fabulous wine-tasting.
Limoux surroundings with the peaks of the Pyrenees in the distance (image by J.Kemp/Unsplash)
Carcassonne
The next stop on this south of France road trip is Carcassonne . This town is famous for its medieval citadel, Cité de Carcassonne , with its formidable watchtowers and double-walled fortifications. Built in Gallo-Roman times, major additions to the town walls were made in the 13th and 14th centuries. The citadel was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.
Carcassonne
Carcassonne is a popular place for day-trippers. I suggest spending a night in the citadel to experience its enchantment when all the day-trippers have left. Search for accommodations in Carcassonne . If you’re staying in Carcassonne for just a day, purchase this ticket for access to the castle and walls.
As an alternative to Carcassonne, you could choose to stay at Domaine Calmel & Joseph . A lovely winery that offers accommodations and wine tours, Domaine Calmel & Joseph is about a 20-minute drive from Carcasonne.
Carcasonne to Narbonne
It takes roughly an hour to get from Carcasonne to Narbonne on the A61 highway. I suggest heading into the hills south of the A61 highway to explore the Corbières area, with its medieval villages, vineyards, castles and gorgeous scenery. Corbières is one of the iconic wine areas of the Languedoc so don’t miss the opportunity to take a few bottles of its rich, fruity reds home with you. Here are several places of interest to visit:
Lagrasse
Lying in the valley of the River Obieu, Lagrasse is a medieval gem! Things to do in Lagrasse include visiting the 8th century Abbey , crossing its medieval bridges and exploring the village’s rustic lanes.
Lagrasse
Château de Villerouge-Termenès
This medieval castle is one of the most important Cathar castles in the region. Stroll around this charming village and visit the castle. The village is also a lovely spot for lunch.
Villerouge-Termenès Castle
Abbeye de Fontfroide
This Cistercian monastery, 15km southwest of Narbonne, was founded in the 11th century. I recommend touring the monastery to admire its beautiful architecture and cloisters.
Fontfroide Abbey
Narbonne
Narbonne is a historic city which can trace its roots back to the 1st century BC. These days, it’s a bustling city dominated by the 14th century Gothic Cathedral . Other important sights in Narbonne include the impressive Archbishop’s Palace , Clos de la Lombarde (ancient Roman ruins) and Canal de la Robine (that links the city with Canal du Midi).
Narbonne
The splendid nave of Narbonne Cathedral
I also recommend a visit and a meal at Les Halles , the city’s covered market.
Les Halles, Narbonne
Just south of the city are several attractions including the salt pans of St. Martin de Gruissan , the quaint fishing village of Gruissan and numerous beaches. I recommend spending 2-3 nights in Narbonne or its surroundings. Search for accommodations in Narbonne .
Béziers
Our next stop is one of the oldest cities in France: Béziers . With a history dating back to the 6th century BC (!), Béziers is a beautiful city to visit. The old town is situated on a hill overlooking the River Orb. Towering over the old town is the St. Nazaire Cathedral , a 14th century Gothic structure that’s visible from miles away.
Beziers (image by M.Wijnants/Unsplash)
Other attractions include the Pont Vieux bridge and Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes (a series of canal locks with nine steps).
Béziers to Montpellier
The area between Béziers and Montpellier (part of the Hérault department) is absolutely worth exploring for a few days. There are historic towns like Agde , Pezenas , and Sète ; charming villages like Roquebrun and Marseillan ; historic attractions like Valmagne Sainte-Marie’s Abbey ; nature parks and countless Languedoc vineyards to visit. There are also numerous beach communities that are popular in the summer, including Europe’s biggest and most (in)famous nudist colony at Cap d’Agde .
A lane in Pezenas
There are many different types of accommodations to choose from in the area between Béziers, Pezenas and Sète. You can stay at a vineyard or by the beach, or choose from lovely hotels, B&B’s, vacation rentals and camping sites. Search for accommodations in this area .
Agde
Located a short drive from Béziers, Agde is one of the oldest towns in France. The main attraction is the town’s 12th century Cathedral . I also recommend a stroll along the embankment of the Hérault River and enjoying a seafood lunch at one of the floating restaurants – I recommend Mare Nostrum .
Agde
You can also head for the beaches and seaside restaurants at nearby Le Grau d’Agde .
Sunset at Le Grau d’Agde
Pezenas
Often listed as one of the most beautiful towns in Occitanie, Pezenas has a charming old town and is surrounded by mile after mile of vineyards. Once the seat of the Governors of Languedoc, Pezenas still maintains its grandeur, evident today by the numerous beautiful 17-18th century townhouses in the old town.
Pezenas
For a lovely lunch and wine-tasting experience in historic surroundings, head for Seigneurie de Peyrat , a rustic winery just outside Pezenas.
Lunch and wine-tasting at Seigneurie de Peyrat
Valmagne Abbey
Valmagne Abbey is a curious attraction about a 15-minute drive from Pezenas. Founded in 1138 as a Benedictine abbey, the abbey soon came under the Cistercian Order. The abbey church was turned into a wine cave by a private owner in the 18th century. Large wine barrels were installed in the church to mature wines, a function that still exists till this day.
Valmagne Abbey church, with its huge wine barrels
It’s a lovely place for a quick stop, if only to see the impressive nave with its equally impressive wine barrels!
Roquebrun
Roquebrun is known as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Situated at the southern end of the National Park of the High Languedoc on the banks of the River Orb, Roquebrun is a popular place for outdoor activities such as hiking and kayaking. Roquebrun is located about a 45-minute drive from Béziers or Pezenas.
Your’s truly kayaking in Roquebrun
Marseillan
This lovely village sits on the shores of the Étang de Thau , the largest of a series of lagoons along this stretch of the French Mediterranean coast and the southern entry point of the Canal du Midi . It’s a picturesque village with many historic houses and a small port that’s a national treasure.
Marseillan
If you love mussels and oysters, Marseillan is the perfect place to indulge yourself as they’re cultivated in the lagoon around the corner! I recommend Restaurant Le Chateau du Port for a terrific meal and lovely views of the port.
Delicious oysters in Marseillan
If you’re a fan of vermouth, don’t miss a visit to the Noilly Prat museum and factory where vermouth has been produced since 1853. Book a tour of Maison Noilly Prat.
Maison Noilly Prat
I also suggest a short walk in the historic village centre. Some of the houses here date back to the 12th century AD. The Church of St. John the Baptist is also worth a visit to admire its beautiful stained-glass windows. From the port, walk south along the shores of the Étang de Thau to spot flamingoes.
Sète
Built upon and around Mont St. Clair, Sète is a port town situated on the south-eastern end of the Étang de Thau . Also known as the ‘Venice of Languedoc’ because of its canals, Sète is famously proud of its cultural traditions and dialect.
Sete
Things to do in Sète include walking along its downtown canals (market day on Wednesdays is especially lively), visiting one of its museums (such as the Paul Valery Museum ), hiking up Mont St. Clair for panoramic views and tucking into a delicious seafood meal. You can also opt to go on a boat tour of the Étang de Thau lagoon (including oyster tasting at a farm) and the Sète canals.
The view from Mont St. Clair
Sete seafood salad
Just outside Sète, you’ll find some of the best beaches and beach clubs in the area such as Plage de la Corniche and Plage Baleine .
Further north from Pezenas
Should you have more time for this South of France road trip, there are more places of interest to visit further north. Here are a few suggestions:
Lac du Salagou
Lac du Salagou is an artificial lake about a 30-minute drive north of Pezenas. The abundance of iron oxide in the soil gives its shores a wondrous reddish colour. The lake is popular amongst locals who come here to picnic, hike, kayak and swim in its crystal-clear water.
Lac du Salagou
There are several hamlets and wineries located in the hills above the lake which are great for a visit. I recommend visiting the charming hamlet of Octon , with its restaurants and wineries.
Octon village square market
Millau Viaduct
About an hour’s drive north of Pezenas, the Millau Viaduct in southern France is the tallest bridge structure in the world. Located on the A75 highway linking Paris with Montpellier, the bridge is a spectacular engineering feat.
Millau Viaduct. Image courtesy of Richard Leeming (Wikimedia Creative Commons).
Designed by Sir Norman Foster and constructed by a French consortium, its tallest mast is 336m (that’s taller than the Eiffel Tower!) and its road deck is suspended 270m or 890ft above the valley floor! There’s a visitor centre at one end of the viaduct.
That mast is taller than the Eiffel Tower!
You can also visit the town of Millau in the valley below. From Millau, it’s also possible to go on a boat tour along the river and under the viaduct.
The town of Millau in the valley and the Millau Viaduct
La Cavalerie
Just off the A75 highway on the way to the Millau Viaduct lies La Cavalerie , a village that’s absolutely worth a stop. The village was founded by the Knights Templar and is composed of a walled settlement with imposing towers and gates.
La Cavalerie
Lodève
This historic city, with its roots in Roman times, was a major centre for textiles in the 18th-19th centuries. Dominated by its impressive Cathedral of St. Fulcran , the old town of Lodeve is a delightful mesh of quiet streets and lanes.
Lodeve (image by H.Hagenaars/Wikimedia Commons)
Montpellier
Montpellier is the seventh-largest city in France. It has the distinction of being the home to one of the oldest universities in the world (established in 1220) and one of the oldest medical schools (with prominent alumni such as Nostradamus). Today, students make up about a quarter of the population, making Montpellier a youthful and vibrant city, with a splendid mix of old and new.
Place de la Comédie, Montpellier
